Worldwise: Esteemed Travel Writer Paul Therouxs Favorite Things – Barron’s

Posted: September 26, 2019 at 11:43 am


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Paul Theroux, a novelist and one of Americas most prolific travel writers, recently spent over a year making forays into Mexico. In a half-dozen trips, each lasting around a month, he drove his own car the length of the border and traveled through the hinterlands: Sonora, Potosi, Oaxaca, Chiapas. In particular, Theroux was interested in exploring the motivations behind Mexican migration to the U.S. What are they leaving? Who are they leaving behind? he wondered.

The result is his newest work, On the Plain of Snakes: A Mexican Journey,Owhich is out Oct. 8th. The title comes from the name of an ancient town the writer chanced upon while driving, after having picked up some locals requesting a ride. A lot of towns in Mexico have the word snake or snakes in their name, he says. Theres a snake on the Mexican flag. Snakes were sacred beings in Aztec society.

Theroux, 78, who divides the year between Hawaii and Cape Cod, recently spoke with Penta about the new book, as well as the joys of marksmanship, the idea for his next travelogue, and what he thought about Anthony Bourdain.

My favorite neighborhood in the world is where Im living now. I live on a hillId rather not reveal the townin Cape Cod. At the end of the road is a tidal creek. I can look at the ocean from my window. I can work here with a nice view and at the end of the day, like yesterday, I can wheel my kayak or take my rowboat down to the creek. Its a combination of living, working, and recreation all rolled into one. The neighbors are friendly, but none live close to me. Its quiet, serene. I spend the summer here, as I did when I was a small boy.

At a certain age, it helps to have worked out your favorite neighborhood and live there. You shouldnt get much beyond retirement age and think, Oh my god, where do I want to live? By then, you should have figured it out and found the great good place.

The one thing in my kitchen I cant live without is a non-stick omelette pan.

If I were to buy a piece of art, it would be an oil painting by Francis Bacon. Hes the greatest modern painter. I just love his work. Its strange, beautiful, ambiguous; some of its violent. Its beauty and its cruelty seem to epitomize the modern world.

The best book Ive read in the last year is I re-read Moby Dick. But Im gonna say, I Am Dynamite, about Friedrich Nietzsche by Sue Prideaux. I knew very little about Nietzsche. What surprised me was what a struggle he had to get started. The strangeness of his life, inspiration and bafflement and solitude, and then he went mad. But he had these short years of brilliance before going completely off his head.

A passion of mine that few people know about is marksmanship. I go regularly to a rifle range. I started off as a Boy Scout (Michael Bloomberg was in the Boy Scouts with me). I got my marksmanship merit badge when I was about 11. Ive never killed an animal but Ive been shooting at targets since then. I havent shot abroad but Ive been shot at: Guns in Kenya and Malawi, and in New Guinea some boys jabbed me with spears. Ive been on the wrong end of hostility.

The one trip Ive taken that I would love to do again without question, Mexico. I would go back to the opening of a taqueria. I would use any excuse to go back to Mexico and see my friends there, speak Spanish, look at churches, talk to people. Its a rich, various, and wonderful place, and its next door.

The next destination on my travel itinerary is I have an idea for a travel book but I dont want to disclose too much about it, except that it involves returning to Malawi, where I was a Peace Corps volunteer 56 years ago. Thats part of it, just a hint.

The thing that gets me up in the morning is the idea of writing something, of returning to my desk. The notion that theres work to be donemy work. I dont have a boss. I havent had a boss or a salary since 1971. The idea that I have work in progress and I have always had work in progress, even after 50-odd books. Ive had something unfinished for all that time.

The restaurant in my hometown that I love to take a visitor is a Japanese restaurant in Yarmouth Port, Mass., called Inaho. Its a great restaurant. When people visit us, we end up there.

A person who inspired me to do what I do is the greatest inspiration I had or mentor was V.S. Naipaul. I met him first in Uganda in 1966, and I visited him in London just before he died in 2018. We had our differences over the years. But he was the man who helped me to become a better writernot a better person because he was a very flawed individual. But in terms of writing, he was a great example. One of my favorite books Ive written is Sir Vidia's Shadow, a book about me and Naipaul and a book about how I became a writer. It took everything I had to write.

If I could have a drink with anybody, anywhere, it would be Anthony Bourdain, to find out the mystery of this man. His suicide was one of the most shocking things I could imagine. Maybe having a drink with him I would have found out something. Maybe I would have been able to help. People said, He dabbled in drugs; he was depressed. But that doesnt explain it. He had a daughter whom he loved. He loved to travel. He loved food. He loved people.

I did have lunch with him once and he was a wonderful person. Hed been so many places. I had just published my book, Deep South, and I mentioned various juke joints, diners, barbecue spots. He knew every one of them. He was just a wonderful guy. Another thing, he was a great reader. The idea of having a drink with someone who reads is a great pleasure for me. And Ill say this, I have no desire to have a drink with anybody in power. Oprah, Bill Clinton, Putin, you name it. People conscious of their power dont interest me and they always seem out of touch. I have always sought out the companionship of people powerless and overlookedthey have the best stories and are usually longing to tell them.

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