Pasta so silky and succulent it delights the palate. Salade caprese surprising in its authenticity. A tiramisu with deceiving richness." All are vegan, but so delicious they appeal to all tastes and dietary preferences.

And who would believe these dishes, usually filled with eggs, milk and cream, contain no animal products? Attribute that to the artistry and talent of one creative, masterful chef. For Pietro Gallo, vegan chef for Little Italys Civico 1845, its all about the food. A vegan himself, he knows that a vegan restaurant must have a vegan chef who understands concerns about food purity and cross-contamination. Hes made it his mission to veganize the traditional dishes of his native Calabria, preparing his menu in a separate section of the kitchen reserved for salad and veggie prep apart from the main kitchen. He always uses a dedicated set of pots and pans.

Seated in the sunny, cheerful dining room of the restaurant he co-owns with his younger brother Dario, Pietro explained that both their Italian and vegan menus are a natural outgrowth of the healthful Mediterranean regional cuisine and simple farm-to-table style cooking of their childhood in Cosenza, Calabria, a small city located in the boot of southern Italy.

Now, his produce organic if available comes mostly from San Diego County rather than Calabria, though he still uses his preferred San Marzano tomatoes from Italy, extra virgin olive oil from Puglia, sun-dried tomatoes from Calabria and, for the traditional menu, cheeses and meats from small producers in the Italian countryside.

Its most important to have the right ingredient. Small vendors let us get the authentic products, he said.

Hanging out in the kitchen from an early age, Pietro learned to cook from his mother. The family ate little meat. Instead his mother, who instilled in him her love of cooking, prepared local seafood, legumes and an abundance of fresh vegetables, many coming from his aunts nearby farm.

Because he had always eaten so many vegetables, the transition to a vegan diet was relatively easy and natural. After he settled in San Diego, his American girlfriend introduced him to veganism, explaining the impact on the environment of meat production. He was especially receptive because of his love of animals.

Why waste water? Why kill animals? he explained.

In designing their restaurant, the Gallo brothers incorporated vegan principles of reuse and sustainability, recycling and refinishing old dining tables and chairs and decorating with repurposed ornamental weathered doors and reclaimed wooden beams brightened with colorful silk flowers and greens. They adorned their walls with antique cooking implements brought from Italy or picked up at flea markets.

The brothers grew up around their fathers restaurant supply business in Calabria, where both worked during and after college, and had expected to take it over. Because of poor economic conditions in Italy, the Gallos decided to sell the business after their dads retirement and open a restaurant elsewhere.

They discovered San Diego by chance. A former employee with family in the city suggested San Diego as a good place to study English. Pietro, 33, and Dario, 28, arrived in 2013. They fell in love with the city and decided to return to open their restaurant. It took two years to find the right location, the former Zias Bistro, and execute their plans. In spring, 2015, they opened Civico 1845 at 1845 India St., with two menus offering traditional Calabrian and vegan fare, sometimes with two versions of the same dish, providing fresh options for mixed dining parties.

Finding vendors and importers for the high quality products they require was difficult at first, but Pietro, the kitchen manager and food buyer, and Dario, the general manager and wine buyer, drew upon the knowledge and expertise of front-of-the-house manager Flavio Piromallo and head chef Alfonso Pisacane, both with more than 10 years experience in San Diego-area Italian restaurants. Pisacane also assists Pietro in developing and testing vegan pasta and other traditional Italian favorites.

Since vegans shun any animal products, including milk, cream and eggs, Pietro experimented to find the right formula to create his vegan versions. He devised a mixture of low-gluten 00 flour and semolina, both imported from Italy, for his pasta dough, instead of using eggs.

Its more difficult to make vegan pasta. I found the right balance in blending flours, he explained.

While theres no comparable vegan substitute for eggs, he prefers using potatoes, cornstarch or tapioca as a replacement when needed. He doesnt like tofu and avoids using soy products as much as possible because of common soy allergies.

I try to use natural products as much as possible, he said.

Pietro hasnt found an acceptable commercial vegan cheese. For his caprese salad, he makes his own delicious version of mozzarella from rice, which requires a 24-hour process using special equipment, plus vegan smoked mozzarella and Parmigiana. To improve his skill, he recently completed a course in Italian vegan cheese-making in Sicily.

Pietro views the creation and success of his vegan menu his proudest accomplishment, superior even to earning two degrees while working in his familys business.

Although they expected their vegan menu to provide only 8 to 9 percent of their business, it now accounts for about 30 percent, and many customers order from both menus.

In a recent roundup of expat cuisine, Italian culinary magazine Gambera Rosso honored Civico 1845, along with a Swiss restaurant, as the two finest examples of exported Italian restaurants.

The Gallo brothers have clearly discovered their niche.

Larson is a San Diego freelance writer.

This colorful appetizer, representing the three colors of the Italian flag, includes one slice of each spread per serving. Use fresh or canned Italian San Marzano tomatoes for the tomato sauce for best results.

Makes 6 servings

Sweet Pea and Mint Mousse

8 ounces (1 cups) sweet peas, shelled

15 fresh mint leaves, plus extra for garnish

2 teaspoons water

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

6 slices whole wheat bread, toasted

Cannellini Bean Pt

8 ounces ( cup) white cannellini beans, cooked or canned

2 ounces (1/3 cup) capers, plus extra for garnish

2 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

6 slices whole wheat bread, toasted

Salsa Mediterranea

8 ounces (4 cups) sun-dried tomatoes (julienne cut, soaked in water for 1 hour), plus extra for garnish

4 ounces ( cup) tomato sauce (homemade or canned; Italian San Marzano recommended)

tablespoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon red onion (finely chopped)

6 slices whole wheat bread, toasted

For each spread, place all ingredients (except toast) in a blender and blend until smooth. Spread each mixture on toasted bread. Garnish each slice with mint (sweet pea/mint), capers (cannellini) and sliced sun-dried tomatoes (salsa Mediterranea).

Makes 6 servings

Almond Pesto

3 cups crushed basil leaves

cup spinach leaves

cup blanched almonds

1 cups extra virgin olive oil or more as needed

Salt and pepper to taste

Pasta Dough

4 cups flour (Italian low-gluten 00 flour recommended)

Pinch of salt

Pinch of turmeric

8 ounces water

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

Place greens, almonds and a little olive oil into a blender and start blending, adding salt and pepper and more oil while blending until desired taste and consistency achieved. Set aside.

Mix flour with salt and turmeric. Place flour mixture on a smooth surface or bowl, creating a crater in the middle. Slowly add water then olive oil into flour, mixing well, until a ball is formed. Cover dough with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes. Divide dough into 4 equal parts and roll flat with rolling pin until dough is about 1/8-inch thick. Cut pasta dough into fettuccine strips about 8 inches long and -inch wide. Cook pasta in salted boiling water for 2-3 minutes. Drain in a colander. Mix fettuccine with 2 tablespoons pesto per serving, adding a little pasta water to achieve desired consistency. Place on plate and garnish with almonds and lemon zest.

Makes 6 small cakes

7 ounces dark chocolate

7 ounces soy milk

1 ounce ( cup) cocoa powder

1 ounces (3 tablespoons) brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon organic corn oil

3 ounces (2/3 cup) flour

Pinch of salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

Icing sugar for garnish

Strawberries and mint leaves for garnish (optional)

Melt chocolate with soy milk in a bowl using a bain marie or place bowl over a pan of hot water. In a separate bowl, add remaining ingredients (except garnishes), mixing with whisk. Pour mixture into melted chocolate and whisk to blend. Pour batter into 4-ounce cupcake or muffin tin. Bake at 350 for 11 minutes. Remove from oven and serve immediately, sprinkled with icing sugar and garnished with optional sliced strawberry and mint leaves.

Recipes from chef Pietro Gallo of Civico 1845.

Continue reading here:

Vegan Italian style - The San Diego Union-Tribune